What happened to French bistro menus? No more Poireaux Vinaigrette, Oeufs Mayonnaise, Pâté de Campagne served with cornichons, or the famed shrimp cocktail. I remember growing up when French bistros were our go-to, first choice when choosing a restaurant. Alas, most of them have disappeared, along with the food classics they used to serve.
There was a restaurant in Montreal on Crescent Street called Thursday’s, and they served French classics such as Pâté de Campagne, Escargots à l’ail, and other treats. They were known for their Pâté de Campagne — they used to bring the entire terrine to the table with a jar of cornichons, and each guest would help themselves. Can you imagine that today?
They also served, among other appetizers, Poireaux Vinaigrette — leeks served at room temperature with a French vinaigrette, a very special dish we can’t find anymore.
Here is my version of this French classic, particularly pleasant in the fall and winter when leeks are in season. It’s incredibly quick and easy to make at home, and there are many variations: mustard vinaigrette, balsamic vinaigrette, lemon vinaigrette, topped with shallots, herbs, chopped egg, and so on. In this recipe, the leeks are steamed, then topped with a Caesar vinaigrette and grated Parmesan.
You can plate a portion for each guest, but we prefer to present them in a large serving dish and let our guests help themselves. Served with a piece of baguette, this dish is elegant yet so simple.
INGREDIENTS
Serves 4
2 Large Leeks
For the Vinaigrette
2 Garlic cloves finely minced
3 Anchovy fillets finely chopped
1/4 Cup Olive Oil
Juice of a lemon
1/2 Teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
1/4 Cup grated Parmesan
1/4 Cup Mayonnaise
Salt & Pepper to taste
PREPARATION
First, cut the great part of the leek (reserve them for a wonderful vegetable broth)
Cut the white part in half and wash them, to ensure they are free of sand and earth.
Cut the white parts in chunks of about 4 inches and place them in a “Marguerite” or like me in a Chinese Bamboo basket to steam.
Add water to the base of the Marguerite, cover and bring to a boil. Steam the leeks until tender (about 10 minutes). Insert a knife in the heart of the vegetable to ensure they are soft and tender.
Let them cool at room temperature if you serve them right away. They are best served at room temperature.
If you have a Immersion blender, this is the time to use it. Simply place all the ingredients in a jar and use the blender to crush the garlic, anchovy and reduce to a puree then add the olive oil, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce to emulsify the vinaigrette.
You can also use in a medium size bowl in which you whisk the olive oil, the lemon juice and mayonnaise to create a thick sauce. Add the anchovy fillets, mince garlic and Parmesan and mix well. It should be thick, yet easy to pour over the leeks.
Serve with fresh baguette !
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